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Microneedling – The process of rolling tiny needles over your skin to improve tone and texture may bother you, then you may be excited about a new skin ingredient that offers the same benefits. It’s called spicules, it’s growing in popularity (especially on social media) and it doesn’t require you to prick yourself over and over again.
Wondering how an ingredient applied topically can do the same thing as literally puncture your skin? To find out, I interviewed a board-certified dermatologist about what spicules are and how they benefit the skin. Plus, I asked them what to look for in skin care that includes spicules and got their recommendations on actual products.
What are spicules?
Although spicules are not actually needles, they reflect them. “They are needle-like structures from marine sponges,” said Dr. says Mary Zinn, dermatologist and author K-Beauty Secrets. “Similar to microneedling, they act as tiny physical stimulators that create micro-channels in the skin, helping to increase the penetration of active ingredients.”
Consider them exfoliants. “Most topical exfoliants break up dead cells on the surface,” says Dr. Eleonora Fedonenko says. “Spicules take this a step further and trigger a micro-wound response that signals your skin to produce collagen and increase cell turnover.”
Another unique thing about spicules is that, unlike traditional microneedling treatments, where metal needles are inserted and removed, these microparticles stay within the surface skin for a while before being shed naturally by normal skin turnover, Zihn says.
Because of this, the spicules can be attached to active substances such as peptides, glutathione and PDRN, Zihn says.
What are the benefits of spicules in skin care?
The main benefit of adding skin care with spicules to your routine is that it helps other active ingredients penetrate better. “They can improve texture, refine pores, and make your treatment more effective without harsh scrubbing,” says Dr. Hannah Kopelman says. “And unlike using a rough scrub to exfoliate, the spicules are uniform, so they reduce the risk of irritation.”
Experts I spoke with said one of the major benefits of spicules is that they mimic the effects of in-office treatments — like microneedling — without spending the time or money you need to go to the office.
Is there anyone who shouldn’t use skin care with spicules?
As with any treatment or product, skin care with spicules in it is not for everyone. “Anyone with rosacea, active eczema, or a compromised skin barrier should avoid,” says Fedonenko. “The mechanical action of spicules that makes them effective in normal skin increases inflammation in already reactive skin, and the inflammation I see in those patients is not as subtle.”
You should be careful if you are using other skin products or medications that can make your skin sensitive. “I would caution anyone mid-treatment with retinoids or any active acne medication, because stacking aggressive exfoliation methods is very harsh,” says Fedonenko.
Excellent skin care with spicules in it
Fedonenko has found that MediCube’s Exosome Shot consistently produces positive results for her patients. Not familiar with exosomes? They are made up of proteins, lipids, growth factors, and microRNAs, and they help skin cells calm inflammation, repair damaged tissue, and increase collagen and elastin production. According to the brand, this exosome serum from Medicube helps get those exosomes deep into your skin to improve texture and tone.
Recommended by Zihn, this serum is gentle enough for daily use because it lines spicules with Centella Asiatica extract and hyaluronic acid. Both of these ingredients are soothing and nourishing, helping to combat any irritation caused by the spicules. When applied regularly, the cream gently exfoliates, which, according to the brand, helps treat blemishes and improve overall skin texture.
Kopelman likes Mediheal’s Spicule products for their efficacy and effectiveness. This serum set comes with a pore tightening solution meant to be applied first. Then, you apply a gel mask that contains spicules to help absorb the first product. Also helpful, according to the brand, the gel mask clears white when all the active ingredients are absorbed.
The spicules in this serum allow niacinamide and tranexamic acid to penetrate deeper into the skin to address uneven skin tone and brighten your complexion. To get the most out of this product, apply it to cleansed skin before any other product – the spicules help it penetrate and fully absorb whatever you’re applying.
This mask has two steps. First, apply the Spicule Serum – which also contains collagen to help plump skin, according to the brand. Then, apply a gel mask to help the serum sink in. Leave the mask on overnight for maximum results. It also contains niacinamide to hydrate and nourish hyaluronic acid. Result: Once the mask is off, your skin should feel plump and glowing.
How I Choose the Best Skin Care
To help you shop for skin care products that contain spicules, I asked the experts what to focus on when you’re browsing. Here’s what they had to say:
- Concentration: “Most skin care with spicules is less concentrated,” says Fedonenko. “If the concentration is too low, you don’t get real penetration.” If you are new to spicules, you may want to start with a slightly lower concentration to avoid irritation. Most of the products on the list above have a concentration between .1 and 1 percent, which experts agree is ideal for those new to the ingredient. If you are using skin care with spicules, you can try for a slightly stronger concentration.
- Other Ingredients: The main job of spicules is to help other active ingredients penetrate the skin more deeply, so they are as effective as possible. So, it’s important to choose a spicule serum that contains other ingredients your skin needs — hyaluronic acid for hydration, collagen for hydration, or niacinamide for nourishment. Additionally, since spicules can be irritating, it helps to find serums that have soothing ingredients in them, says Fedonenko. Centella asiatica, allantoin and niacinamide are good choices for this.
- Price: Skin care products come in a wide range of prices — and adding one more product to your routine can rocket your beauty budget. To keep things reasonable, I focused on products with spicules under $30.
Frequently Asked Questions
“I tell patients to start slowly with spicules—think once or twice a week,” Kopelman says. This will help ensure that it does not cause the opposite effect you want and does not irritate your skin. When it comes to using actual products, Kopelman says to apply Spicule products to clean skin and always follow up with a hydrating serum or moisturizer to protect the skin’s barrier and keep things calm.
Many people call spicules “liquid microneedling,” which is not the same as in-office microneedling, says New York dermatologist and Mohs surgeon Dr. Jane Yoo says. Although both microneedling and spicules can aid in the absorption of products, in-office microneedling is more precise.
“Unlike microneedling, the depth the spicules penetrate is not as brief and they remain more superficial, so the effects are less predictable,” says Zihn.
If you have sensitive skin, proceed with caution. “People with very sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema or a weakened skin barrier may find the spicules irritating,” says Zihn. People who pop acne should also be careful — the spicules can irritate the blemish and make the swelling worse, Kopelman adds.
Otherwise, Spicules skin care is completely safe, but always consult with your dermatologist or skin specialist before adding any new ingredient to your routine.
Meet our experts
At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We take steps to ensure that all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest.
- Dr. Mary Jean Dermatologist and author K-Beauty Secrets.
- Dr. Eleonora Fedonenko is a dermatologist and medical director of Your Laser Skin Care in Los Angeles.
- Dr. Hannah Kopelman is a board-certified dermatologist in New York.
- Dr. Jane Yu Dermatologist and Mohs surgeon in New York.
Why trust NBC Choice?
I’m a commercial editor at NBC Select and a journalist who regularly covers beauty, home and lifestyle. I recently reported on vibrating plates and red light therapy for hair loss. For this story, I interviewed a dermatologist about adding spicules to your skin care routine.
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