Metula in northern Israel is like a ghost town. Shops are closed, hotels are closed and there is very little sign of life.
This is the front line of the fight against Hezbollah in Lebanon, and it feels otherworldly.
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Metula is at the forefront of Israel’s war with Hezbollah
After The October 7 attacksMost of the people fled this border town fearing invasion.
In later years, it was hit by mortars and missiles fired by Hezbollah.
And now, once again, the air is filled with the sound of gunfire and sirens.
But next to the hollow hotel, once popular with tourists, is a lovely cafe with its doors open. Miri assembles chairs after serving some young Israeli soldiers.
She is remarkably upbeat and defiant. This time, she believes Israel crushes Hezbollah – The Iranian proxy casts a long shadow over this town.
Miri is one of the few still living in Metula
Life among the militants
“The fight feels like we’re about to finish it — once and for all,” he says.
“You have to understand that Hezbollah is not a communal group and they are not freedom fighters: they are a terrorist organization that endangers not only the Israeli people, but the Lebanese people and people around the world.”
They need to “eradicate” them, she emphasizes: “like cockroaches.”
It sounds like extreme language, but life here is lived in extremes. Debris, military machinery, smoke trail from Israeli interceptors. There are also picnic tables and concrete benches on the hill if you want to see the ruins of past wars – destroyed houses across the border.
Many buildings here are in ruins
The recent confrontation with Hezbollah has seen fierce clashes and no let-up on either side.
And it’s not just the border areas in the crosshairs. last week, An Israeli minister said his government would turn Beirut’s southern suburbs into Gaza.
Hundreds of thousands of Lebanese have already been displaced — an exodus unparalleled in Israel.
Remnants of past battles along the border
‘It’s hard to live like this’
About 20 minutes’ drive from Metula is the northern city of Kiryat Shimona. Once a commercial and financial center, it is struggling to rebuild after October 7, when many were displaced.
Yamit Yanai Malul, a lawyer with two children, has spent years in constant danger.
“It’s hard to live like this because you never know when a missile will hit you,” he says.
“Maybe at the supermarket, or doing something with the kids, so you’re always nervous.”
Despite the dangers, Yamit Yanai Malul stayed behind
And yet, she remains. And this time, he promises, it will make a difference.
“We have a stake in this war,” he says.
“We will not flee to another country and seek asylum. This is home and we will stay here. And I think we will help the government by being here.”
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A sense of patriotic duty may live on for months, years to come. And she may need that constant patience.
Destroying Hezbollah for good is a massive task – no matter how weak it is.
And in the meantime, it feels like many more could break through from both sides of the border and beyond – with civilians caught in the middle.
