Khan Younis, Gaza Strip – Historical landmarks often withstand centuries of volatile change, but when rockets and missiles fall, even the most durable stones become vulnerable.
For generations of families in Gaza’s southern city of Khan Yunis, the grain market was the first stop when they went shopping.
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Reaching it means walking past the historic Barquq Castle, a centuries-old structure dating back to 1387 and the foundation of Khan Yunis.
But to the residents, the fort is more than just an old monument; It is a familiar landmark that marks the entrance to one of the city’s lively commercial spaces.
The aromatic scent of spices and dried herbs accompanies any walk towards the grain market.
But that was before Israel’s genocidal war on Gaza began. Israeli raids caused heavy damage to the grain market and Barkuk Castle. The market is now down to tattered alleys, dust and a heavy silence fills the air.
Sitting in her shop in a row of dilapidated old shops, 60-year-old Nahed Barbakh, one of the city’s oldest and best-known traders of major food supplies, spent decades watching customers through the market. Now, only a handful pass by his shop.
“I have been in this place for decades, day in and day out, watching people bring life to this place,” said Nahed. “Now look – it’s empty. These days, there’s no room to walk because of the crowds preparing for Eid.”
He paused before gesturing towards a nearby castle.
“We’ve always felt the weight of history here because we’re so close to Barkuk Castle. Now that history and life has been hit by the occupation.”
But the Israeli fire did not take into account the historical state of the market. Long considered the economic heart of Khan Younis, the grain market was one of the first sites of destruction in the second month of Israel’s genocidal war on Gaza. More than two years of Israeli bombing and repeated waves of displacement have rendered the market unrecognizable.
“The occupation killed many of our friends who were working here,” Nahed said quietly. “The survivors are financially broke. That’s why you see most of these shops still closed.”
He pointed to some shelves behind him.
“My store is fully stocked with its high-capacity merchandise. We have additional warehouses to meet people’s needs, especially during busy seasons.”
Before he could finish his sentence, he was interrupted by a deafening explosion – the sound of Israeli tank fire.
“And that’s the biggest reason people are afraid to go back,” Nahed said abruptly. “The yellow line is only a few hundred meters from this street. At any moment, bullets could reach here.”
The Yellow Line is the demarcation line that Israeli forces withdrew from as part of October’s first-phase ceasefire agreement. It effectively splits Gaza in two, and Palestinians have repeatedly fired upon it to approach it.
The Yellow Line bisects Khan Yunis, dramatically reshaping the city’s geography. Israel has repeatedly shifted the line, moving it deeper into Gaza.
The grain market, once at the center of city life, is now near the Yellow Line.
With the city’s commercial heart effectively turned to its edge, where people hesitate to walk, a revival of everyday commercial life is a distant prospect.
Centuries of endurance
The grain market traces its origins to the late 14th century, when the Mamluk ruler Yunis al-Nauruzi founded Khan Yunis in 1387 as a strategic stop on the trade route connecting Egypt and the Levant.
Built as an extension of Barcuk Castle, which served as a caravanserai for traveling merchants, the market became a central commercial hub where merchants and travelers exchanged goods, moving to Africa, the Levant and beyond.
The grain market occupies approximately 2,400 square meters (25,830 sq ft). Its single-storey shops have a central street running east to west, intersected by narrow alleys branching off towards small courtyards. The buildings preserve elements of their original construction, including sandstone walls and traditional binding materials that have survived centuries of repairs and alterations.
Over time, the market evolved into the primary commercial center of Khan Younis, retaining its historical character and adapting to modern commerce.
But today, many of its shops are damaged or closed.
According to Gaza’s Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, the market is now among more than 200 heritage sites damaged in attacks by Israeli forces across the Gaza Strip since October 2023.
At the southern end of the grain market, rows of greengrocers once teemed with fresh produce, with only one makeshift stand open.
Om Sayed Al-Farra, a local, carefully stepped towards the shop, inspecting a small pile of vegetables placed on a wooden crate. The expression on her face was more reflective than surprised; The market is in disbelief about what has happened.
“The market is miserable right now,” he said. “There were many stalls and people had many choices.”
She gestured towards the empty expanse of the market’s vegetable section, once one of its busiest corners.
“These days were once filled with extensive joyful preparations for Eid, with families thronging the market to shop for food and necessities,” Al-Farra said. “Now the market is unusually dark, its stalls mostly empty and its familiar vibe gone. Everything is limited. Even if you have money, there are no places left here for us to buy.”
Financial collapse under fire
Although parts of the market infrastructure remained physically intact, many traders did not return.
According to Khan Younis Mayor Alaa El-Din Al-Batta, the grain market was once one of the city’s most important economic lifelines.
“Just as it once connected continents, even under the blockade, it continues to connect people across Gaza,” Al-Batta said. “It has a deep place in the memory of our residents. But once again, the occupation has brought destruction, targeting both our history and a critical lifeline for our people.”
For nearly two decades, Israel has controlled Gaza’s land crossings, airspace and coastline under a strict blockade. Since the genocide began in October 2023, sanctions have been further tightened, causing businesses and trade to collapse.
In the narrow western lane where scattered stones cover the ground, two clothes hang outside a small shop. Inside, 57-year-old tailor Mohammad Abdul Ghafoor leaned over his sewing machine, carefully sewing a torn shirt.
His shop was the only one open in the gray lane.
“I have been here since childhood,” said Abdul Ghafoor. “My father opened this store in 1956, and I grew up learning the trade right here in the market.”
Israel’s bombing not only destroyed the place where he worked; It also killed dozens of his family members.
“On December 7, 2023, Israel committed a terrible massacre against my family,” he said. “I lost my father, my brothers and more than 30 relatives.”
Burying his family members is the beginning of a long, painful separation from the market and his shop.
“We were forced to relocate more than 12 times. I had many opportunities to leave as my two children live in Europe,” said Abdul Ghafoor. “But I could think of returning to my shop.”
When the Israeli forces withdrew to the Yellow Line, he returned alone.
“I cleaned the street myself. And if I had to do it again, I would. He who loves his land never leaves it,” he said. “I charge my batteries in my machine and come every day. My return encouraged some residents to come back. But people still need shelter, water and basic services before most families can return.”
Resident Mohammad Shahwan stopped by Nahed’s shop to check the list of items he hoped to buy.
“We left the overcrowded al-Mawasi as soon as we could to return to our damaged home,” he said, referring to the stretch of coastal Khan Yunis where thousands of Palestinians have been forcibly displaced. “But the number of residents here is still very low because of the destruction and lack of services.”
Now, Mohammad Shahwan was relieved to find the shop open.
“For the first time in two years, we are making traditional Eid biscuits,” he said, holding up a list of ingredients. “The last two Eids have been dark for my family since we lost my 17-year-old son Salama. He and his aunt were killed by an Israeli attack.”
They could now buy expensive supplies elsewhere, but going back to the grain market made sense, he said. “I want to buy them from here like we always did.”
Awaiting restoration
According to Mayor Al-Batta, restoring the historic market requires a major reconstruction effort.
“A comprehensive restoration process is needed for the grain market to function again,” he said. “So far, our work has been limited to clearing debris and delivering limited water supplies to returning residents.”
The reconstruction process requires specialized materials and expert restoration work to preserve what remains of the historic structure. Municipal workers have already collected remaining stones from the ruins, hoping they can one day be used to rebuild parts of the market.
But reconstruction is impossible under present conditions.
“More than five months have passed since the ceasefire began, but not one bag of cement has entered Gaza,” Al-Batta said.
“We want to restore our historical identity and revive life for our people. But neither will happen while Israeli sanctions and violations continue.”
(tags to translate)Economy
